How to Apply & Fire a Ceramic Decal
A complete step-by-step guide to applying waterslide decals and firing them to a permanent, food-safe finish in your kiln.
What You'll Need
Gather these supplies before you start. Everything here is standard ceramic studio equipment — no specialty tools required.
Supplies
- — Your ceramic waterslide decal
- — Shallow bowl of warm water
- — 91% isopropyl alcohol
- — Scissors or craft knife
- — Soft squeegee, damp makeup sponge, or rubber rib
- — Clean, lint-free sponge or cloth
Equipment
- — Kiln (electric recommended for precise control)
- — Kiln shelves and furniture
- — Pyrometric cones or digital controller
- — Already-glazed ceramic piece (bisque + glaze fired)
Ceramic decals are a third firing — applied over an already-glazed piece. Your work must have been bisque fired and glaze fired before decal application.
The 8-Step Application Process
Applying a ceramic decal is straightforward, but a few key steps make the difference between a perfect result and a frustrating one. Take your time — especially the first time.
Start with a clean, already-glazed surface
Your piece must have been bisque fired and glaze fired before decal application. The glaze surface should be clean, dry, and free of dust, oils, or fingerprints. Wipe it down with a clean, damp sponge and let it dry completely before beginning.
Clean the ceramic surface
Clean the glazed surface with 91% isopropyl alcohol. Wipe down the entire area where the decal will be applied. This removes fingerprint oils, dust, and residue that can prevent the decal from adhering evenly. Allow to dry completely before applying the decal.
Cut out your decal
Trim the decal as close to the design edge as you like. The excess clear covercoat around the design will be invisible after firing, but keeping margins minimal helps prevent trapped air bubbles. Use scissors for simple shapes or a craft knife for intricate cuts.
Soak in warm water for at least 30 seconds
The image will begin to uncurl from the backing paper — this is your signal it is ready. Don't over-soak; you want the decal sliding freely but still on the paper when you lift it out.
Slide the decal onto the ceramic surface, face up
Hold the backing paper against the ceramic where you want the decal and use your finger to gently slide the image off the paper and onto the piece. Unlike tissue transfers, waterslide decals go face up — the image appears exactly as printed, with no mirroring. You have a short window to reposition before it begins to dry.
Squeegee out air bubbles and excess water
Use a soft squeegee, a damp makeup sponge, rubber rib, or your fingertip to gently press from the center outward, removing trapped air and water. Avoid anything abrasive. Any bubbles left underneath will show as lifted areas or pinholes after firing. Be gentle — the decal is fragile when wet.
Let it dry completely before loading the kiln
Allow at least 1–2 hours of air drying before loading the kiln. The decal should appear completely flat with no visible moisture.
Fire using the recommended 2-step schedule
Load the kiln with proper spacing between pieces. Use the following firing schedule recommended by our print supplier:
Recommended Firing Schedule
This is the firing schedule we recommend for our Custom Full Color Digital Ceramic Decals. It also works for silkscreen overglaze decals fired at the same cone.
| Segment | Ramp Rate | Target Temp | Hold | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 200°F/hr (95°C/hr) | 788°F (420°C) | None | Burn off organics and binders in the covercoat |
| 2 | 285°F/hr (140°C/hr) | 1555°F (846°C) | 15 min | Fuse mineral pigments into glaze surface |
| COOL | Natural cool | — | — | Vent kiln lid slightly; do not open until cool |
The ramp through 300–788°F is critical. Moving too fast through this range can cause the covercoat to bubble, trapping gases and resulting in a blistered or pitted finish.
Digital Controller Users
If your kiln has a digital controller (Bartlett, Orton AutoFire, etc.), program a custom 2-step schedule matching the table above. Most controller "fast fire" or "cone fire" modes ramp too quickly for decals. A manual, multi-segment program gives you the control you need.
Manual Kiln Users
Start on the lowest setting with the lid propped open about 1 inch. After 1 hour, close the lid and switch to medium for another hour. Then turn to high until you reach 1555°F (846°C). Use witness cones on a kiln shelf at eye level to confirm temperature — they're more reliable than a pyrometer alone for overglaze work.
Kiln Loading Tips for Decal Firings
Space Between Pieces
Leave at least 1 inch between pieces. Decals release gases as the covercoat burns off — good air circulation prevents those gases from depositing on adjacent pieces.
Decals Face Up
Never stack pieces with decals facing down or touching kiln shelves. The decal surface should be exposed to open air during the firing.
Ventilate the Kiln
Crack the lid or open the top peephole during the first segment to let moisture and fumes escape. Close once you pass 788°F.
Use Witness Cones
Place a Cone 018 witness cone on the shelf at eye level. Digital controllers can drift — witness cones confirm the actual heat work in the kiln.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even experienced potters hit the occasional snag. Here are the most common decal firing issues and how to fix them.
Bubbles or Blisters in the Decal
Cause: Ramped too fast through the 300–788°F range, trapping gases from the burning covercoat. Can also be caused by residual moisture under the decal.
Fix: Slow down Segment 1 and 2 of your firing schedule. Ensure decals are fully dry before loading. If you see this consistently, add a 10-minute hold at 400°F to let gases escape.
Decal Peeling or Lifting at Edges
Cause: Air trapped under the decal during application, or the decal dried before being fully squeegeed down.
Fix: Take more time during Step 5 to press out all air and water. Work from the center outward. On curved surfaces, make small relief cuts in the decal to help it conform without lifting.
Colors Appear Faded or Washed Out
Cause: Fired too hot — the mineral pigments can burn out at temperatures above Cone 018. Can also happen when applying over a dark glaze.
Fix: Verify temperature with witness cones (don't rely solely on the digital controller). Use light or white glazes for the most vibrant color reproduction. If your kiln consistently over-fires, try targeting Cone 019.
White Haze or Matte Film Over the Decal
Cause: Under-fired — the covercoat and flux didn't fully melt and fuse into the glaze surface.
Fix: Re-fire the piece using the same schedule. A second firing at Cone 018 will often resolve a hazy finish. Make sure your hold at peak temperature is at least 10 minutes.
Decal Cracked or Shattered During Firing
Cause: Thermal shock from ramping too fast, or the decal was applied over an area with crawling or pinholing in the base glaze.
Fix: Ensure the underlying glaze is smooth and defect-free before applying the decal. Follow the slow ramp schedule, especially in the early stages. Avoid placing pieces near kiln elements where hot spots can cause uneven heating.
Choosing the Right Glaze for Your Decal
The glaze underneath your decal has a direct impact on the final color result. Here's what works best.
Maximum color vibrancy and truest color reproduction. The white surface acts like paper for a printer — every color shows exactly as intended.
Pale celadon, soft pink, and light gray glazes work well. The base color will shift your decal slightly — plan for this in your design.
Digital toners are translucent — dark glazes will absorb the color. Heavy matte surfaces can interfere with decal adhesion. If you must use dark clay, apply a white underglaze or slip first.
Pro tip: If you're unsure how your decal will look on a specific glaze, order a single sheet and test a small section first. This is one of the great advantages of digital decals — no minimums mean you can test before committing.
Applying Decals to Curved Surfaces
Flat tiles and plates are straightforward, but mugs, bowls, and vases require a few extra techniques to get a smooth, wrinkle-free application.
Make relief cuts
For decals wrapping around a mug or bowl, cut small triangular notches at the edges. This lets the decal overlap slightly and conform to the curve without wrinkling or folding.
Work in sections
On tight curves, slide only part of the decal onto the surface at a time, smoothing as you go. Don't try to position the entire decal at once on a strongly curved piece.
Use smaller decal pieces
Instead of one large decal, consider designing multiple smaller elements that can be placed individually. This avoids the stretching and wrinkling problems of large decals on compound curves.
Ready to Print Your First Decal?
Upload your image, choose your quantity, and we'll print and ship your custom Letter-size digital ceramic decal. No minimums, no screen fees.